Thursday, 26 November 2015

Second degree burn

after doing my research on what makes 2nd degree burns and different types of the burn I decided to go with a blister that was caused by scolding the arm in boiling water I want the placement on the middle of the forearm

sculpting!!!
Firstly I had my plastic flat tray that had no marks or bumps on it to not show up during the moulding, I heated up my clay with a hair dryer  to make it easier to work with I decided to create  two blisters joined together with a curve I added texture to the blister as blisters are usually quite smooth appearing I also played around adding finger prints into it to create the skin like texture then I  used my tools to make the skin around the blister look flakey.

After making the mould I got my cup cut off the top then with a glue gun secured it around the edges to make sure the silicone doesn't leak out.


Then spray with fixing spray and shake it well before spraying.
Let it dry!!  Spray with petro lease shake well again so it's not too shiny and has droplets
Stuff to keep in mind is that silicone hates aloe Vera and garlic and latex so won't set if it's around any of those
The next step was to cover my work space and scales with cling film to make sure it was all covered so no products could leak on to it. It's very important to work clean with silicones as you can't mix A & B together so it's important to remember to make your sticks A & B  and to change your gloves when using the different product and to clean with a baby wipe to ensure its kept separate.
To get it to set properly you always need equal amounts of A&B for this I used 10 of each mixed well tapping the cup to make sure no air bubbles  change your gloves when going from measuring A & B
Then pour the mixture over the sculpture you have to work fast so the silicone doesn't set.

After that has set you start making your positive!
Firstly clean your mould with alcohol, spray with petrol ease (shake well)
Mix super boldez its alcohol in prop ration 1:2
Avoiding air bubbles pour mixture into your mould wait for it to dry then apply your second layer.
Any waste product needs to be wiped out

After that's dry you mix silicone A&B and deander I did 10 grams of a 10 grams of B  and 17 grams of deander,  deander is the agent of silicone that makes it flesh likes. I maked sticks A, B and C not to get confused and mix them up and changed my gloves each time I used a different product.
Once they were mixed together I added my droplets of pigments I used a pale skin colour and white you don't need to add too much off the pigment mix well and gently tap on the table to get rid of any bubles then pour over the mould working quickly as my first time I waited too long so it didn't set properly and I had to re- do the process also my mould was flat as I must have moved it while it wasn't set so I had to prop it up with sticks but once I did it again it worked perfectly. While spreading the product use a ruler to make sure the top surface is even by spreading the product across evenly.
You wait for that to dry and the with talc you brush the edges up slowly making sure you don't rip it and keep brushing slowly and adding talc till you can remove your piece!

No comments:

Post a Comment